My Adventure Continues…Plitvice National Park and Cres Island

Last Thursday – I walked at Plitvice Lakes National Park for about 6 hours. It is a huge, beautiful, not-to-be-missed series or lakes, waterfalls, and water literally rushing everywhere in Croatia. It was glorious and so nice to have some quality water time, being a Pisces. It was everywhere and it was that gorgeous turquoise color that comes with limestone. It was breathtaking. Plus there were many times at the upper lakes where I had to trail all to myself. Nature and the power of water were delightfully present, and I kept finding wonderful people I could chat with for a few brief moments.

I was exhausted when I returned to my lovely pension where they have treated me like family and have done so much to make my stay wonderful

Then Friday morning I caught a bus at 6:45am. Three buses later and I am now on the lovely, peaceful island of Cres in a small village of about 2000. I have a large room in a private home with a lovely garden- about $40 per night.

My plan for the weekend is a slow pace, seeing the griffon vultures, some hiking, swimming and sunbathing, and relaxing. Every day I get my traveling legs stronger under me, and I am feeling more confident in dealing with the great unknown.  🙂

All my bopping around from place to place and making up my own itinerary has made managing public transport a little more complicated than usual although I am getting to do and go everywhere I want. Monday morning at 9am I take a catamaran from Cres back to the mainland, spend one night in Rovinj on the coast then head to the cave and Lipizzan Stud Farm in Slovenia for 1.5 days.. It’s simply my good intentions that are getting me to places without really much hassle. Just takes more figuring out as I go and asking more questions.

I hope to check in again from Rovinj. I am now at the halfway point of my adventure. It feels as if I have been gone a long time because I have done so much, and I look forward to all that I  will get to do in Slovenia and Venice.

Happy trails!

A Day in the Life of an Independent Solo Traveling Woman

Everything went well today, even though it had a couple of interesting moments. BTW,  I sprained my foot a few days ago and you would never know it now. It feels perfect…100%

Hard to leave my new friends – hotel staff – in Sarajevo. They were sad to see me go. They took such great care of me when I  had to stay off my foot for a day.

Bus ride to Jajce went well. When I got off the bus and walked into town, everywhere I went had no rooms available. I was thinking I might have to get on the next bus to my next destination about 4 hours away – arriving about 8 or 9pm in a bigger city. Didn’t sound inviting.

People kept directing me to ask the next place, most of which seemed to be uphill, to ask if they knew a place. I was about to give it up. Was tired of lugging my bags, probably about 28 – 30 pounds, uphill. A man who works in one of the two main hotels in town told me I probably wouldn’t find anything as there was a big national film festival in town all week.

Then, presto!!,  a German speaking woman had a room for one person in her home hostel. And it works!! It’s only about 6 feet wide and it’s clean, in good condition, large window, clean shared bath, seemingly filled with guys, 15 Euros, safe and do-able for one night. Plus she’s fixing breakfast just for me one hour early so I can have breakfast and catch my bus at 8am!!

Can’t beat the price! Then I saw a man from Canada that I had dinner with at the hostel in Mostar staying in same place so if he feels good enough, we’ll have dinner together. It’s all worked out perfectly. A day in the life of independent travel.

I needed more Bosian marks and made it to the bank 2 or 3 minutes before they close and my bus is at 8:20am so I really needed that money.

After exploring the medieval fortress at the top of a high hill, and the atmospheric catacombs where apparently Tito hid for a while in 1945, I bought some delicious cheese from a modern, very Western, supermarket. And they had 70% dark chocolate bars. Yummm!  I’m getting all my essential food groups!!  🙂

Then as I’m walking home, two imams begin to sing the call to prayer from different locations in town. I sat down and enjoyed listening.

Tomorrow I catch two buses and head back into Croatia to visit Pritvice National Park. You might enjoy Googling it so you can see the photos.

As you can tell, it has a been a full day!!

I’ve Loved Sarajevo, Bosnia!!

I have spent the last 4 days here in Sarajevo, a city of contrasts, with a history steeped in WWI, Yugoslavia and Tito, the 1984 Winter Olympics, and the Serbian siege in the early 90’s. The weather here has been quite pleasant and this is supposed to be the coolest, wettest destination on my trip.

I spent much of today exploring the city,  trying to understand the complexity of life in Bosnia during the fighting in the early 90’s and life today. Trying to blend so many religions and cultures with so much attachment to the pain of the past in order to build a beautiful future…they are flourishing and struggling.

Ah, the imam  is singing the call to prayer. It’s 8:30pm. The first call was this morning at 4:30!! I always love it-even at 4:30am!!

Tomorrow I go to a small town with lots of medieval roots to spend the night then on to Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia for one night, doing my best to avoid the tourist crowds in mid-day. Then to Cres Island to relax for a few days, enjoy the beach, explore and see the rare and recently re-introduced Griffin Vultures.

Ah, now a young imam-in-training is singing the call to prayer! He has such a beautiful voice!!

I am sad to leave Sarajevo, a compelling city about the size of San Francisco built on the banks of the Miljacka River and picturesquely climbing the steep, green mountains on both sides. A city of people who are quick to smile, of profound resilience and inner strength, who seek a Western life style, and enjoy leisure at the many sidewalk cafes.

A city filled with mosques, Orthodox and Catholic churches, and Jewish temples. Buildings with bullet and shrapnel holes that have not been rebuilt. Here is a link with more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Sarajevo

Today I saw the 800 meter tunnel the people of Sarajevo built under the airport runway that allowed food, weapons, electricity and phone lines into the city during the approximately 1400-day siege by the Serbs. I also saw the Holiday Inn where media reporters stayed as they reported the events of that siege.

I have felt so safe here and have seen local women of all ages walking past my hotel window in the darkness. Crime is almost non-existent.

Time to pack my bag and get some sleep so I can be rested for my early 3-hour bus ride in the morning.

I have been gone one week today! My time has been so full it feels longer than that. And I have so many places yet to explore before I return home.

Joy to you and your family!!

Greetings from Dubrovnik, Croatia!

Great day today! Excellent night’s sleep…I passed out after staying up after my overnight flight. I feel rested today although my body gets tired fairly quickly walking all the hills around here.

Dubrovnik is pretty touristy so it detracts somewhat from my really seeing it – lots of people eating delicious Croatian ice cream, stores for shopping, and sidewalk cafe’s everywhere.

Walked the 2km wall around Dubrovnik last night…best way to see the walled old town. Beautiful views over Adriatic and few people since it was later in the day. Another great view of the city was from the plane as we were coming in for a landing. I lucked out and was on the right side of the plane.

Heard there were two cruise ships coming today so I caught a bus out to Trsteno Gardens about 30 minutes from town. Quiet except for two Brits with whom I enjoyed exploring the gardens and walking down and back up the harbor far below. Fun sharing travel stories with the great British sense of humor. In the 70’s, they drove with a few other people from London to South Africa and back. Can you imagine??

Glad I’m here. Will re-enter northern Croatia after I go to Mostar, Bosnia, tomorrow and then on to Sarajevo the next day. I’m loving this adventurous trip!

The people tend to be serious-looking, not friendly or happy, and curt with their answers to my innocent questions. I can feel the presence of war in people’s lives.

And they can be so sweet and out-going, such as the people where I’m staying and the man I met walking to the bus station and he spontaneously offered me a large fresh apricot from the market I had just passed.

I’ve been tracking the news and have not seen anything significant I should avoid in Bosnia that I’ve already visited.

Gotta go. There’s a museum War Photo Limited nearby which comes highly recommended although intense. Hopefully I’m not setting myself for a bad time. Will see.

Happy trails to all of you!!

Fun Family Photos – Easter 2011

Okay, we had a great time in Mendocino over Easter weekend. I tried to choose just a few photos and I simply could not post any fewer. I love so many of them!

I love sharing my family with you!